kook-book-cover

Kook

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Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave – that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder – in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.